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A Chariot Story





And lo and behold, it is that time of the year again. The yearly Machhindranath jatra; one of the biggest events in Lalitpur It is an experience of a lifetime!

If you’ve passed the Pulchowk road recently, you might have noticed the chariot being built. The tall and sturdy chariot carries within it: rato machhindranath or the god of rain. It makes sense because the jatra takes place every year in April – May right before monsoon. The rato machhindranath has another name: Bungdya. The name originates from the place where the god of rain resides in other times of the year: Bungamati. Every year, the Bungdya is brought in from Bungamati, in a celebratory way, of course, once the chariot has been complete.

The chariot to house the deity of Bungamati is built days ahead at Pulchowk. The chariot is mainly built from wood and cane of specific kind and measurements. Everything associated with the chariot has to be 32. The chariot is to be 32 hands long. The rotation of the wheel is to be done 32 times. The length of the wood attached to the front of the chariot is also 32. The beautiful but heavy chariot is pulled with the help of two big wheels. The big chariot is also followed by a smaller one; one which houses the Seto Machhindranath. As everything in the chariot of Rato Machhindranath has to be 32, the smaller chariot is to 28.

With the installation of the Bungdya, the jatra starts. The chariot is dragged from its spot in Pulchowk and through Gabahal where it spends the night. The chariot is then taken through the town: the next stop being Mangal Bazar. Every morning, Bungdya is made to wash his face and shown a mirror to start the day. Post Mangal Bazar, the next destination is Sundhara through Hakha. During the stretch between Iti and Thati, as per time honored tradition, the chariot is pulled exclusively only by women. And then after, the chariot visits Chakrabahil and Lagankhel. When the chariot reaches the busy streets of Lagankhel, a coconut is thrown from the zenith of the chariot. It is said that whoever catches the coconut and offers it to Bungdya will be blessed with a baby boy and will have an auspicious year ahead. The chariot is then celebrated through the wide streets of Kumaripati and brought to the Jawalakhel roundabout where the authentic Bhotojatra takes place. The bhoto of Bungdya is shown with pride. This bhoto consists of jewels. Once Bhotojatra takes place, the Bungdya is taken back to hometown and the festival ends at Jawalakhel.

However, once in every 12 years, the chariot procession actually starts from Bungamati itself and the Bungdya is taken from the streets of Thadodhunga at Dhobighat.

To see this huge chariot, towering over the house of Patan being pulled by hundreds of men, celebrated at each pull is truly something else. Come join the jatra this year. Live the experience of a lifetime!

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